The Washington Post, June 2, 2004
The pinnacle in poached seafood is a whole salmon served chilled and decorated with artfully cut cucumbers and sprigs of fresh dill, perhaps served under a layer of aspic. That requires an investment in special equipment: a fish poacher, an elongated pan fitted with a rack.
Smaller fillets can easily be poached in an ordinary skillet using an aromatic broth or court bouillon (a broth made from vegetables and herbs). Choose a thick fillet cut from the area closer to the head of the fish: the meat near the tail is thin and dries out easily. Instead of flaking the salmon fillet, you may slice it into individual portions.
6 servings
Ingredients:
For the court bouillonDirections:
For the court bouillon: Combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to barely a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, covered, for 20 minutes. Strain the court bouillon, discarding the solids. Set aside.
For the salmon: In a heavy skillet just large enough to hold the salmon fillet, heat the court bouillon to a gentle simmer. If desired, attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pan or prop an instant-read thermometer in the pan with the dial propped against the side of the pan. It should register 200 degrees.
Carefully lower the salmon fillet into the liquid. The temperature of the water will plunge and it will cease to bubble around the edges. Heat the liquid until it returns to just below a boil, 180 degrees, and adjust the heat to maintain this temperature. To keep the salmon submerged, it may be necessary to place a small weight, such as a lid from a small pan or an empty coffee mug, on top of the salmon. Cook the fish until it is opaque throughout and flakes easily, 12 to 13 minutes per inch of thickness. To test for doneness, use a paring knife to make a small incision in the fillet and inspect it visually.
Transfer the salmon to a plate and set aside to cool. (May cover and refrigerate for up to several hours.)
For the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, combine the cucumber, shallot, white wine vinegar and a generous pinch of salt and pepper to taste. Mix until the salt has dissolved. Add the oil, whisking, in a steady stream until well combined. Set aside.
For the salad: Trim the scallions so that only the white parts remain. Remove the outer layers until only the inner, tender green shoots remain.
Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Have a bowl of ice water ready. Add the scallion shoots to the pot and boil for 1 1/2 minutes. Transfer to the ice water. Repeat the blanching process, first with the peas, then with the asparagus, cooking just until each is bright green and barely tender. Transfer to the ice water. Drain and set the vegetables aside.
To assemble: Place the lettuces in a large bowl. Stir the vinaigrette to recombine. Drizzle the lettuce with half of the vinaigrette and toss gently to coat. Divide the lettuces among 6 chilled plates. Remove and discard the skin from the salmon. Flake the salmon into large chunks and divide it evenly among the plates. Place the scallions, peas and asparagus in a bowl, drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette and toss gently to coat. Divide the vegetables evenly among the plates. Serve immediately.
This recipe is adapted from "Chez Panisse Cooking," by Paul Bertolli and Alice Waters (Random House, 1994).
278 calories, 14g fat, 2g saturated fat, 62mg cholesterol, 111mg sodium, 10g carbohydrates, 4g dietary fiber, n/a sugar, 26g protein.
