Summer Berries and Herbs in a Parmesan Cup With Fruit "Gastrique"

The Washington Post, July 9, 2008

• • Course: Salad

Summary:

This presentation from Odessa Piper combines an herb salad (see her recipe for Gougeres Salad Canapes) with a sweet-tart vinaigrette derived from juicy, ripe summer berries and served in a salty, crisp Parmesan tuile.
It’s important to use finely grated cheese for the tuiles, and the drier it is, the better. The tuiles can be made and molded 1 day in advance. Re-crisp them in a 350-degree oven for a few minutes by draping over inverted ramekins.

4 servings

Ingredients:

For the tuiles

• • 12 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

For the gastrique and salad

• • 2/3 cup raspberries
• • 1/2 cup strawberries, hulled and cut into quarters
• • 1/2 cup blackberries
• • 2/3 cup blueberries
• • 1 tablespoon black currants (optional)

For the gastrique

• • 1/4 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
• • Drop or two of balsamic or raspberry vinegar
• • Pinch sugar, or to taste
• • 2 tablespoons grapeseed or mild olive oil

For the salad

• • 4 ounces herb mix/greens, including 30 percent basil leaves, 30 percent arugula leaves and the remaining can be any combination of sorrel, tarragon, watercress, cilantro, flat-leaf parsley or equal parts basil and arugula
• • 2 teaspoons mild olive oil
• • 2 pinches flaked sea salt, such as Maldon (may substitute coarse kosher salt)
• • Freshly ground black pepper
• • Flowering dill umbels and a mix of edible flower petals, such as bee balm, bachelor's buttons and calendula, for garnish

Directions:

For the tuiles: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Trace two 6-inch circles on the paper. Have ready 2 small heatproof ramekins.

Use 3 tablespoons of the cheese to fill in each circle on the baking sheet. Bake for 5 minutes, until the center is bubbling. Just when the cheese starts to turn a light golden color, remove them from the oven and use a fish spatula or very thin rounded knife to loosen them around the edges. The tuiles will be molten at first, but in a matter of seconds they will start to firm up enough so that you can lift each one off the baking sheet in one piece. Working quickly while they are still pliable, drape the tuiles over inverted ramekins to form cup shapes. Let cool for 1 minute. Repeat to create 2 more tuiles.

For the gastrique: Combine 1/2 cup (packed) of raspberries, blackberries and blueberries and the black currants, if desired, in a fine-mesh strainer with a bowl placed beneath it to catch the pureee; mash the berries to form a fruit sauce. Add the soy sauce, a drop or two of balsamic vinegar, if desired, and a pinch of sugar to taste. Whisk in the grapeseed oil or mild olive oil. Taste and adjust for salt/sweet/acidity as needed. Discard any remaining pulp.

For the salad: Place the herb greens in a medium mixing bowl; drizzle with the oil and toss to coat. Add the salt and the freshly ground black pepper to taste; mix gently. Add the remaining mixed berries; toss gently with the greens (the fruit may break up but that’s okay).

To assemble: Divide the gastrique among individual plates; tip each one to spread the sauce to a 3-inch diameter. Place a tuile in the center of each pool of sauce and fill with the herb-fruit salad. Garnish each with a flowering dill umbel and scatter a mix of edible flower petals over the salad. Serve immediately.

Recipe Source:

From Odessa Piper.

188 calories, 14g fat, 4g saturated fat, 13mg cholesterol, 305mg sodium, 11g carbohydrates, 4g dietary fiber, n/a sugar, 7g protein.