The Washington Post, September 24, 2008
In many parts of the Middle East, pancakes are synonymous with Ramadan. As Muslims begin their fast at sunup each morning, bakers are already busy at work. Walking down an average street, you'll see them pouring pancake batter onto griddles, where the cakes are cooked on just one side.
In some Arabic countries, the pancakes are called qatayef (atayef in Egypt) and are stuffed with mixed nuts or cream, then baked or deep-fried and finally drenched in a sweet syrup.
In the North African countries of Morocco and Algeria, the pancakes go by the Berber name of beghrir. There they are served open-faced, with plenty of butter and sweet honey from the Atlas mountains. For optimal results, serve these pancakes with the best-quality butter and honey you can find.
You may use semolina flour instead of all-purpose flour for added texture.
Makes 24 pancakes (6 servings)
Ingredients:
Directions:
Combine the yeast, sugar and 1/4 cup of the warm water in a small bowl, stirring until the yeast and sugar have dissolved.
Sift the flour and salt into a large mixing bowl and make a well in the center. Pour in the yeast mixture; add the remaining 1 1/4 cups warm water, then the orange-flower water. Whisk until the batter becomes smooth. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap, then with a clean, dry dish towel to help insulate it. Place in a warm, draft-free area and let the batter rise for 1 hour; it will be bubbly when it is ready.
Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large skillet over medium heat until the oil shimmers. Carefully empty 1 heaping tablespoon of batter into the skillet to form a 4-inch round pancake. Form a few more pancakes in the same manner, being careful not to crowd the skillet. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until the tops of the pancakes are full of holes and dry on the top. Use a thin spatula to transfer them to a serving platter; arrange in an overlapping pattern. Repeat to use all the batter, adding oil as needed.
Top the pancakes with butter and honey. Serve hot.
Adapted from "Arabian Delights: Recipes and Princely Entertaining Ideas From the Arabian Peninsula," by Amy Riolo (Capital Books, 2007).
199 calories, 5g fat, 0g saturated fat, 0mg cholesterol, 21mg sodium, 33g carbohydrates, 1g dietary fiber, n/a sugar, 5g protein.