Sarde Arrosto (Griddle-Roasted Sardines)
- Cuisine: Italian
- Course: Appetizer
- Features: Fast
Summary:
Fresh sardines, a nice olive oil and quick cooking are the keys to this super-simple starter that is on the menu at Dino's in Cleveland Park. Your first batch probably will come out a little shredded, so practice before you make this for guests.
The sardines should have clear eyes and smell briny, not fishy. Refrigerate them on top of ice cubes in a colander with a drip bowl underneath if you need to keep them overnight.
It's best to cook the sardines in batches. You cannot cook too many at once, as it takes time and patience to flip each single fish.
Be sure to have some crusty bread to sop up any juices.
4 appetizer servings
Ingredients:
- About 1 pound fresh whole sardines, preferably Portuguese or Moroccan
- Salt
- 1/4 to 1/2 cup olive oil, plus more to coat the fish and the pan as needed
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Juice from 1 or 2 lemons (1/4 cup), plus more as needed
- 1/2 large bulb fennel (cored and outer layers discarded), shredded using a mandoline (1 1/3 cups)
- Coarse salt, for sprinkling
Directions:
Use the sharp edge of a utility knife to scale the sardines by rubbing them from tail to head without cutting into the meat. Next, run the point of the knife from the tail to the base of the head to open up the cavity; remove and discard the guts. Rinse well and pat dry. It's best to leave the sardines with their heads on; that will keep the fish flavorful and moist as it cooks.
Heat a large cast-iron skillet or grill pan with pan-height sides over high heat. The cooking surface must be very hot, as the sardines must crisp and roast at once.
Season the cleaned sardines with salt and pepper to taste. Working in two batches, coat the sardines well with oil and place in the very hot skillet or grill pan. Sear for 2 to 3 minutes, letting the skin crisp a bit. Then very carefully work a spatula under the fish, keeping the skin intact, and turn it over. You may need to hold the fish in place with a second spatula while sliding the first one underneath it. If the pan is hot enough and the skin crisp enough, there will be no sticking.
Cook for 1 to 2 minutes on the second side. If you feel resistance as you try to turn the sardines and the skin starts to tear, leave the fish for a few more seconds. Do not move the fish around or turn it more than once; add oil to the skillet or pan as needed. As the sardines are done, transfer them to a serving plate and sprinkle with lemon juice.
Meanwhile, heat a small skillet (not nonstick) over high heat. When it is quite hot, add the 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup of oil (to taste) and the fennel. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add a little lemon juice. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the juice has evaporated and the fennel has picked up some golden color; if you used 1/4 cup of oil, you may add more at this point. Season lightly with salt and pepper; taste and add lemon juice as needed. The fennel should be a little tart to balance the oil of the sardine.
Top each portion of sardines with about 1 tablespoon or two of the cooked fennel, then sprinkle with the coarse salt. Serve immediately.
To eat, run a dinner knife under the flesh, starting at the tail. The fillet will come off the bone almost by itself. Then use your finger to lift the bone from the bottom fillet, holding down the fillet with a knife if the fillet sticks to the bone.
Recipe Source:
From Dean Gold, chef-owner of Dino's in Northwest Washington.
E-mail the Food Section with recipe questions.
(James M. Thresher for The Washington Post)
