Big Eds Cheese Souffle

The Washington Post, April 20, 2010

• • Course: Main Course
• • Features: Meatless

Summary:

It's easiest to separate egg whites and yolks when they are cold, so do so as soon as you take the eggs out of the refrigerator. But let them come to room temperature before using them in this recipe.

Big Eds, a semi-aged unpasteurized cow's-milk cheese, is available at MOM's markets.

4 to 6 servings

Ingredients:

• • 6 large egg whites, at room temperature
• • Pinch cream of tartar
• • 4 large egg yolks, at room temperature
• • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
• • 2 tablespoons finely and freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
• • 3 tablespoons flour
• • 1 cup whole milk, warmed
• • 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• • 1 teaspoon salt
• • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, preferably white
• • 10 to 12 stems chives, finely chopped (2 tablespoons)
• • 1 cup finely grated Big Eds cheese (may substitute Gruyere or another melting cheese; see headnote)

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Have a 6-cup souffle dish at hand.

Combine the egg whites and cream of tartar in a large mixer bowl that is clean and grease-free. Place the egg yolks in a smaller bowl.

Use about a tablespoon to grease the inside of the souffle dish, then sprinkle the Parmigiano-Reggiano inside, tilting the dish so all sides are evenly coated. Refrigerate while you make the bechamel sauce (a chilled dish seems to keep the butter in suspension better during baking).

Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring, without letting it brown. Slowly whisk in the warm milk; the mixture will thicken immediately. Keep stirring; once it starts to bubble at the edges, cook for 3 to 4 minutes to form a thick bechamel sauce. Add the nutmeg, salt and pepper; mix well, then remove from the heat.

Beat a little of the bechamel into the egg yolks to temper them so they will be less likely to scramble. Then whisk the yolk mixture back into the rest of the bechamel. Transfer to a large bowl.

Use a stand mixer or hand-held electric mixer to beat the egg whites and cream of tartar until just stiff but still shiny and moist-looking.

Sprinkle the chives over the bechamel. Use a flexible spatula to quickly stir a quarter of the beaten egg whites into the bechamel; this will lighten the sauce and make it easier to fold in the remaining egg whites.

Scoop the remaining beaten egg whites onto the top of the sauce base. Use the edge of the spatula to fold them in as follows: Cut down into the whites, drag the spatula along the bottom of the bowl toward you and bring the sauce mixture over the top of the whites. Give the bowl a quarter-turn and sprinkle some of the grated Big Eds cheese on top. Continue to fold the whites and the cheese into the sauce base until all of the whites, cheese and sauce are just combined, without deflating the egg whites.

Transfer the mixture to the chilled souffle dish, gently smoothing the top. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, or until the souffle is puffed and golden brown. Do not open the oven door for at least the first 20 minutes of baking so the souffle can set.

Serve immediately. To maintain as much of the puff as possible when serving, plunge an upright serving spoon and fork straight down into the center of the souffle to pull the crust apart and scoop out a portion.

Recipe Source:

Adapted from "Cooking One on One: Private Lessons in Simple, Contemporary Food from a Master Teacher," by John Ash (Clarkson Potter, 2004).

250 calories, 19g fat, 11g saturated fat, 185mg cholesterol, 550mg sodium, 6g carbohydrates, 0g dietary fiber, 0g sugar, 13g protein.