washingtonpost.com: Tom Sietsema/staff/articles/tom+sietsema/2009-12-02T16:00:00ZAsk Tom: Our food critic talks shop2009-12-02T16:00:00Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-12-02:/wp-dyn/content/discussion/2009/11/18/DI2009111803051.html?nav=rss_liveonlineChez Manelle, named with the future in mind2009-11-22T05:00:00Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-22:/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/11/21/AR2009112100816.html?nav=rss_artsandliving/foodanddiningAffection for her daughter wasn't the only thing that prompted Chedlia Dridi to name her Tunisian eatery, Chez Manelle in Arlington, after the 16-year-old. Mom confesses to an ulterior motive: "I'm hoping she'll take over."The Dish2009-11-22T05:00:00Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-22:/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/11/21/AR2009112100811.html?nav=rss_artsandliving/foodanddiningAn edited excerpt from the Going Out Gurus blog, http://voices.washingtonpost.com/goingoutgurus:How To Be A Better Diner2009-11-22T05:00:00Ztag:feeds.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-22:/click.phdo?i=15d8ad27a9a919cf2dd392e422dc55bdThere are countless ways customers can endear themselves to restaurants. Inviting a clown to a four-star establishment is not one of them. Who's your favorite food diva?2009-11-19T20:50:03Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-19:/wp-srv/community/groups/announcement.html?wpBlogId=Blog:b309abfb-0298-41a9-b75b-cfb85b455d1e&plckController=Blog&plckScript=blogScript&plckElementId=blogDest&plckBlogPage=BlogViewPost&plckPostId=Blog%3ab309abfb-0298-41a9-b75b-cfb85b455d1ePost%3a485fad4d-8210-4f38-8fe6-18c812da7deeFood divas Rachel Ray and Martha Stewart recently took turns appearing on each other's popular TV shows. In a Nightline interview, here's what that latter had to say about the former: "Well, to me, she professed that she could -- cannot bake," said Stewart. "She -- just did a new cookbook which is just a re-edit of a lot of her old recipes. She -- and that's not good enough for me. I mean, I really want to write a book that is a unique and lasting thing. Something that will really fulfill a need in someone's library. So, she's different. She's -- she's more of an entertainer than she is, with her bubbly personality, than she is a teacher, like me. That's not what she's professing to be." Ray more or less agreed with Stewart: "Her skill set is far beyond mine. That's simply the reality of it. That doesn't mean that what I do isn't important too... I don't consider it needling. I really just think she's being honest. She does have a better skill set than I do when it comes to producing a beautiful, perfect, high-quality meal. I'd rather eat Martha's than mine, too." The exchange brings us to my question of the day: Which tastemaker do you prefer, and why? (Pretend you're on a desert island and can only access one diva.)Who's behind the future DC Diner?2009-11-19T17:12:13Ztag:voices.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-19:/goingoutgurus/2009/11/whos_behind_the_future_dc_diner.html?wprss=goingoutgurusChowhounds might already know there's a diner planned for the long-vacant McDonald's in Cleveland Park. Discerning types should be thrilled to hear that the owners of the popular Nooshi and Spices, chef Jessie Yan and Vanessa Lim, are behind the replacement. Unlike their pan-Asian eateries, the future venue, tentatively called DC Diner, will have a more American focus. Think omelets and sandwiches, some sort of steak and long hours: DC Diner may serve as early as 6 a.m. and on weekends, as late as 2 a.m., says Lim. She's hired Beltran Design Group in Washington to turn the space at 3407 Connecticut Ave. NW into a bucolic--0-seat dining room. Look for barn wood inside. A note from the architect, read by Lim, suggests the interior will "reflect the beauty and simplicity of the farm." The restaurateurs hope to open the diner in April, but "you know construction," says Lim. Yan will serve as executive chef. Pitching in: Spices' in-house pastry chef, Hong Kong native Sammy Chong, and a crew of cooks yet to be identified. The American menu will fit in some Asian accents, promises Lim. "We can't resist some Asian sandwiches." Meanwhile, Yan has begun testing pancakes. "She's good at it!" reports her business partner. -- Tom Sietsema Ask Tom: Our food critic talks shop2009-11-18T16:00:00Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-18:/wp-dyn/content/discussion/2009/11/11/DI2009111116300.html?nav=rss_liveonlineReplacing 'koodies' and 'foodies'2009-11-18T05:02:15Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-18:/wp-srv/community/groups/announcement.html?wpBlogId=Blog:b309abfb-0298-41a9-b75b-cfb85b455d1e&plckController=Blog&plckScript=blogScript&plckElementId=blogDest&plckBlogPage=BlogViewPost&plckPostId=Blog%3ab309abfb-0298-41a9-b75b-cfb85b455d1ePost%3a65bc7336-3ec5-47d7-a5ad-db1a09afb73dAccording to Phil Lempert, the "Supermarket Guru," there's a new breed of food lover out there. He is dubbing any kid "interested in food, especially eating, cooking or watching reruns of Julia Child" as a "koodie." Instead of hankering for chicken nuggets and french fries, Lempert says, these pint-size gourmets want "sushi, pad Thai or smoked salmon in the Happy Meal." He's encouraging retailers to take advantage of the emerging demographic by offering in-store tasting and cooking demonstrations that are fun and encourage family time. Will the term catch on? (To me, koodie sounds too much like the playground taunt, cooties.) I challenge you to find a better name. And while we're on the subject, what can we find to replace the tired term "foodie?" Share away.New Washington gastropub is British, with Scotch on the side2009-11-18T05:00:00Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-18:/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/11/17/AR2009111700720.html?nav=rss_artsandliving/foodanddiningBefore being tapped to cook at the British-accented Againn, Wes Morton says, he wasn't exactly fluent in bangers and mash or bubble and squeak. But "a ton of reading" and a week-long "eating frenzy" around London in August gave the Louisiana native plenty of ideas for what he could serve at the snazzy new gastropub in Washington.Dish: Read all about it; Fourth Estate taps new chef2009-11-18T05:00:00Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-18:/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/11/17/AR2009111700695.html?nav=rss_artsandliving/foodanddiningAn edited excerpt from the Going Out Gurus blog, http://voices.washingtonpost.com/goingoutgurus:A Ziebold Venture Heads South: Tom Sietsema Reviews Sou'Wester2009-11-15T05:00:00Ztag:feeds.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-15:/click.phdo?i=89942472f62d3084be9942036cf4780aSou'Wester 1330 Maryland Ave. SW 202-554-8588 mandarinoriental.com Ask Tom: Our food critic talks shop2009-11-11T16:00:00Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-11:/wp-dyn/content/discussion/2009/11/04/DI2009110403411.html?nav=rss_liveonlineTom Sietsema's First Bite: Kellari Taverna on K Street NW2009-11-11T05:00:00Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-11:/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/11/10/AR2009111000788.html?nav=rss_artsandliving/foodanddiningI noticed something recently at 1700 K St. NW that's been missing from there for several years: a buzzy place to eat.Dish: Kababji Grill2009-11-11T05:00:00Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-11:/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/11/10/AR2009111009872.html?nav=rss_artsandliving/foodanddiningEdited excerpts from the Going Out Gurus blog, http://voices.washingtonpost.com/goingoutgurus:Read all about it: Fourth Estate taps new chef2009-11-10T22:26:32Ztag:voices.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-10:/goingoutgurus/2009/11/read_all_about_it_fourth_estate_taps_new_chef.html?wprss=goingoutgurusBefore she applied to cook at the National Press Club, Susan Delbert had no idea there was a restaurant on the building's 13th floor. But now that she's been hired as executive chef of the 102-year-old organization, which includes the Fourth Estate dining room, she can tick off plenty of reasons you might want to book a table there. At--th and F streets, it's close to the Mall and within walking distance of the downtown stages. The Fourth Estate is also open five days a week for lunch and dinner and Saturday for brunch. Yet another lure: Delbert, 58, was the top student in her class when she graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 2001. In an earlier life, she practiced criminal, tax and business law, but cooking always had a place on her resume: One of her first gigs was at the late Gerard's Place, where she spent Saturdays cleaning spinach and peeling carrots for the French chef Gerard Pangaud. In the mid-80s, she temporarily retired from law to cook on a 33-foot-long boat that sailed around the Mediterranean and crossed the Atlantic (twice encountering hurricanes). Consequently, she knows a thing or two about buying groceries in foreign ports and whipping up meals in small spaces. Following cooking school, Delbert cooked in such diverse establishments around town as the defunct BeDuCi, Third Edition and the Oval Room. Most recently, she was one of eight sous chefs at Old Ebbitt Grill, which prompted her jump to the Fourth Estate. "It's nice to have my own show" and work in a historic venue, says the chef, who started Monday. "This doesn't need fixing. (But) I'm happy to infuse a little more" innovation. Time spent in Australia as a student and Alaska as a lawyer (does this woman ever rest?) will help shape her new menu. Among the dishes she plans to put on the menu are lamb curry as she ate it Down Under and baked salmon served on rosemary bread stuffing and slathered with an egg sauce. Working in a club means hanging on to some traditions, though. So she'll continue to offer crab cakes and steak. And once a lawyer, always a lawyer: "I'm still paying those bar dues," says Delbert. - Tom SietsemaCatchiest (or most annoying?) food jingles2009-11-10T15:55:16Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-10:/wp-srv/community/groups/announcement.html?wpBlogId=Blog:b309abfb-0298-41a9-b75b-cfb85b455d1e&plckController=Blog&plckScript=blogScript&plckElementId=blogDest&plckBlogPage=BlogViewPost&plckPostId=Blog%3ab309abfb-0298-41a9-b75b-cfb85b455d1ePost%3a8f42cbd1-13f8-474e-a6db-2b09b536204bSlashfood.com has compiled a list of 10 of the catchiest (most annoying?)  food jingles ever. I think I could add at least another dozen songs to the collection, including those that begin with "I'm a Pepper, you're a Pepper,"  "Two all-beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese.." and "If it says Libby's, Libby's, Libby's on the label, label, label, you will like it, like it, like it on your table, table, table." Be warned: Just thinking about possible inclusions keeps them in your head. Right now, for instance, I can't dislodge the Chock-Full-O'Nuts theme (you know, the "hea-a-a-a-venly coffee?") What food jingle would you nominate as best/worst/hardest-to-forget-once-you-think-about it?   X.O. marks the spot for tasty Cantonese: Tom Sietsema reviews X.O. Taste Seafood2009-11-08T05:00:00Ztag:feeds.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-08:/click.phdo?i=d8f7dbcdf4998d6a6962184a94af4266X.O. Taste Seafood Restaurant 6124 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church 703-536-1630 Priceless advice for waiters2009-11-05T15:10:28Ztag:www.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-05:/wp-srv/community/groups/announcement.html?wpBlogId=Blog:b309abfb-0298-41a9-b75b-cfb85b455d1e&plckController=Blog&plckScript=blogScript&plckElementId=blogDest&plckBlogPage=BlogViewPost&plckPostId=Blog%3ab309abfb-0298-41a9-b75b-cfb85b455d1ePost%3ab0a9c8d3-da2f-4e71-8df8-5025787615ebRestaurateur Bruce Buschel's list of do's and don'ts for job-seekers at his seafood restaurant created major online buzz recently, first at the NYT, but also just about everywhere else, including my Wednesday food chat. One of my favorite rules for waiter-hopefuls: "Do not interrupt a conversation. For any reason. Especially not to recite specials. Wait for the right moment." To which this diner says: Amen, brother! Which bit of advice would you love your waiter to follow? Leftover Halloween (Eye) Candy2009-11-04T21:05:44Ztag:voices.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-04:/goingoutgurus/2009/11/leftover_halloween_eye_candy.html?wprss=goingoutgurusOne of Washington's most popular restaurateurs did his best to channel Julia Child October 31. We have no idea if he nailed her voice, but the get-up is mighty convincing. Any idea who's behind the apron and pearls? Guess away. -- Tom Sietsema Coming to Dupont: Kababji Grill2009-11-04T19:46:06Ztag:voices.washingtonpost.com,2009-11-04:/goingoutgurus/2009/11/coming_to_dupont_kababji_grill.html?wprss=goingoutgurusKebab alert: The Beirut-based Kababji Grill is poised to open its first U.S. restaurant in the the District later this month. In a phone conversation this morning -- Starbucks my time, lunchtime there -- founder Toufic Khoueiri, who owns "around 30" similar establishments abroad, told me his next project will be at 1351 Connecticut Ave. NW (in the same building as Hello Cupcake). At least two more area restaurants are expected to follow next year. The focal point of the--0-seat dining room in Dupont will be a charcoal grill and a brick oven (Kababji is making its own pita bread for table service). On the menu: skewered beef and chicken, of course, but also vegetable dips, meat pies, semolina cake and two kinds of kebbeh, or steak tartare. One, flavored with mint, basil and onion, reflects the northern style; the other, spiked with chili pepper sauce, is preferred in south Lebanon. To prepare for launch, seven cooks spent seven weeks training in Beirut, which has one of the largest Kababji Grill locations. Khoueiri says the Dupont Circle spot will include carry-out, catering and delivery. Khoueiri, who founded the company 16 years ago, hopes to distinguish his product from the pack with lean staples and food that tastes like a Lebanese mother made it. His chicken skewers will be skinless breast meat, for instance, while his beef (chunk) kebabs will feature tenderloin. Kababji Grill is expected to open the last week of this month. Georgetown and the area around the Verizon Center are prospects for branches No. 2 and 3 in the city, says Khoueiri. -- Tom Sietsema